We are big fans of Ridge wines - a SF Bay Area winery in, guess what? Cupertino, CA. In fact, they are around 8 miles away from our original apricot tree in Santa Clara. This is really one of the best agricultural areas in the world. Never once have we gotten a bad bottle of Ridge - and that says a lot since many wines we buy with corks are iffy. Anyhow, they source their grapes from several vineyards, and our favorites are Monte Bello, Ponzo, York and Lytton. Ridge is famous for their zinfandel wines, a true California grape that they handle so well - usually blended with other variety of grapes of a lesser percentage than the zin. However, we were lucky to recently buy a 1995 Cabernet of theirs at a value of $80 instead of the usual $300 that was really fun to drink. We normally never spend this much on wine, but it was very rare and we like Ridge so we splurged.
Ridge is famous for the blind taste test in France in 1976 where their Monte Bello cab from 1971 won top place. Our 1995 Monte Bello was a blend - after 1975 they started to blend it. So we decided to do our own blind tasting. The 1995 Ridge against a 2006 Elvenglade pinot noir. Now we know this is a totally unscientific taste test since they are different grapes. But what the hell. It was fun to compare a $300 bottle of 13 year old wine to a $20 bottle of 2 year old wine. The results:
On first tasting, we thought we had a winner. Of course this was like most blind tastings, subject to speculation. One wine was very powerful and deep yet rough and at the same time with a rich mellow after taste. Unsanded wood was one image, yet the powerful assertiveness of the fruit on the palate at first and then the mellowing vanilla and then more earthly qualities like mushrooms and tar and leather came through. This assertiveness we attributed to a younger wine and thought we could tell it was the pinot. The other wine was more flavorless, timid and one dimensional as if it were stale. OK, we thought, the old stuff is the stale stuff because it has mellowed too much. We thought we were pretty smart. Then we opened our eyes and were surprised that the super rich flavored, young and even rough tasting wine was the 1995 Ridge cab. What a shock. We closed our eyes again and mixed up the glasses and tried tasting again. This time we could spot both wines. On second tasting, at first we could smell the higher alcohol from the pinot at 14.6 percent but the taste was one dimensional again with just a tannish, very dry but flat cardboardy taste. The Ridge in comparison at 12.7 percent had an amazingly assertive aroma of wild fruit like cherries and blackberries but tempered with a little vanilla from wood. The taste on the tongue at first was musky, smoky and like sauteed wild mushrooms, yet very dry and tannic. After swallowing the flavors continue on the memory banks, fall leaves, rich soil etc. The pinot left a sour dry yet uncharacteristic taste.
We love buying young zinfandels for drinking for their powerful fruit. Most wines today are made for drinking within a few years. The older tradition of making wines to age and be at their peak after 10-30 years seems outdated. However, this tasting really opened our eyes to how a well made wine can actually survive a long time. Granted, buying older wines is very expensive, but this tasting shows that a wine designed for aging can surpass in flavor, ripeness, richness and power a young wine. We would be curious to know what the Ridge tasted like say ten years ago. It must have been really overwhelming.
We buy our Ridge wines at our favorite SF wine shop where the staff are personable and smart: Wine Impressions -
3461 California St.
The Judgment of Paris' 30th Anniversary
Ridge 1976 Paris Tasting
Ridge Vineyards